As the brutal news of terror attack after terror attack all over Israel has spread, this sick feeling of dread overcame me. “I hope it’s not G-d forbid another intifada,” I found myself worrying in my heart.
Then, right as I was flooded with this depressing thought, a father in my Facebook feed put this question: “Any suggestions of places to go or things to do in Jerusalem for a visit with a precocious 12-year-old?”
Despite the terror news, visitors to the Holy City are still coming. How wonderful.
As someone raised in Jerusalem who then went on to live there as an adult for close to eight years, and who might or might not once upon a time have potentially fit a “Jerusalem Syndrome” diagnosis, I said to myself, now this is a question I can answer!
All jokes aside, these are the Jerusalem spots that came to mind:
Daybreak at the Kotel.
It’s perfect for the first morning upon arrival, when you are jet lagged anyway. It could also be special as a departure moment prior to leaving Israel.
If you go on Friday at daybreak, erev Shabbat, there was (and perhaps still is) an elderly woman, who with the press of a coin into her palm (any amount), distributes freshly fragrant aromatics, such as hadasim (myrtle leaves) or luisa (Aloysia), Israel’s verbena, or other spices for you to bless on Friday night after kiddush. It feels like a living echo of the Talmudic story about Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai happening upon the man rushing late Friday afternoon as he holds two hadasim, one for “remember the Sabbath” and one for “safeguard the Sabbath.”
Yemin Moshe.
Moses Montefiore’s windmill.
The nearby Old City of Jerusalem and City of David.
All the usual stops, tours and experiences, such as the tunnels adjacent to the Western Wall, the excavations, the Ramban synagogue.
Walking the ramparts.
Learning the art of Armenian pottery painting at Jerusalem Pottery in the Armenian Quarter of the Old City.
Nobel laureate Shai Agnon’s house.
In the Talpiot neighborhood, you can see the lectern upon which he leaned and wrote all of his literature, standing up, almost like a prayer leader, a representative, of the Jewish people.
Mount Zion Hotel.
For breakfast, plus you can use or see its authentic high ceiling, Ottoman Empire, Turkish hamam steam bath chambers.
The Shuk.
Machne-yuda, as the Jerusalem market is called. Both a formal culinary tour replete with history and vignettes, as well as casually meandering, especially on Thursday or erev Shabbat afternoon, maybe tasting some nibbles from Zedekiah’s antipasti of olives, or other finger foods like little lemony rice stuffed cabbages or grape leaves.
The Supreme Court.
The architecture is beautiful, and the philosophical concepts behind it is reflective and compelling.
Shalva.
A model of inspiration in caring for the vulnerable in the community, an opportunity for chesed, for helping others, on the trip. And enjoying the café, all created, staffed and served by this remarkable community of people who are disabled yet who elevated the benchmark for the world to see.
Sataf and Ein Karem.
It’s at the edge of Jerusalem, a beautiful, quiet, and charming oasis. The Sataf hike is light, easily a nice walk on a late Friday morning. There are goats. And cheese. Or, cafés in town amongst the charming bouganvillea and vibe of Ein Karem.
A yeshiva or beit midrash.
A house of Torah study, capturing the special cacophony of audible Torah study.
The tayelet.
Biking the Haas Promenade, as it’s locally known. Its view of the Temple Mount is breathtaking.
Hebrew University.
The view from Mount Scopus. Another breathtaking view of Jerusalem.
The Italian Synagogue on Hillel Street.
It might be open for services only once a month. It’s worth checking into. A very different prayer service, a little gem of a slice of Italian Jewry right in the heart of downtown Jerusalem.
Beit Zayit.
The reservoir. It’s good for a little pause or relaxation without going too far or doing anything too strenuous.
Israel Museum.
The Dead Sea scrolls.
Pinati Hummusiya.
The “Hummus Corner” on King George Street, for hummus and fluffy freshly-baked-from-the-oven pita, what is called ful, a bowl of warm hummus with warm whole beans. And hole-in-the-wall Shalom Falafel, there since 1948, on nearby Bezalel Street, close to the stair case going up to Nachla’ot and the Machne-yuda market.
Givat Hatachmoshet.
Ammunition Hill. Site of one of the fiercest battles in the Six Day War. The trenches are there. It’s where I ran and played as a child.
Nebi Samuel.
The Tomb of Samuel the Prophet. We used to visit there Friday afternoons, my father’s way of giving my mother breathing space as she cooked for Shabbat. Today, Nebi Samuel is a nature reserve, and it’s right in Jerusalem.
Emek ha-Elah.
Deer Valley. Beautiful graceful deer! Centrally located in Jerusalem. Yet you feel transported to a world of nature, forgetting you are right in the middle of a bustling city.
Pantry Packers.
A packing plant where visitors and tourists partner in packing food staples for those in need.
Museum of the Underground.
In the Russian Compound. Commemoration of fighters for Israel’s independence.
Bab el-Wad.
Sha’ar HaGai Interactive Museum.
I don’t know whether Jerusalem neighborhood streets are still dotted with wonderfully arty Friday craft fairs, but if so, enjoy them!
Then there’s the symphony every Thursday night at the Jerusalem Theatre. Of course you can hear this music in any hometown, so perhaps it doesn’t make sense to squander special Jerusalem time on classical music. But if it’s your vacation, and your time for relaxation, it’s always lovely.
A ride on the Jerusalem rail over the actual Gesher ha-Meitarim, The Jerusalem Chords Bridge, just at the entrance to the city — the bridge is named for the chords of a harp it evokes. It’s only a matter of seconds as you glide through these suspended chords, but still.
The induplicable Chagall Windows at Hadassah Hospital in Ein Karem.
Tea or breakfast on the luxurious balcony of the classic King David Hotel, overlooking from the ancient walls of Jerusalem (maybe that’s more for the parents than for the 12-year-old!).
Free time, just roaming and doing nothing, but imbibing and taking it all in. Walking the streets the Holy City on Shabbat Friday night.
If it were Chanukah, I’d say, go to Meah Shearim and the Jewish Quarter in the Old City, just to see all the menorah-illuminated windows.
If it were Elul, I’d say, take the starry night Selichot penitential prayer tours.
There’s the new Museum of Tolerance, also in the heart of town. I have not been there yet. But I hear it’s very impressive.
A Jerusalem Tour with Rabbi Benjy Levine, the grandson of the tzaddik of Jerusalem, the late Rabbi Aryeh Levine (d. 1969). He shares many stories about his grandfather and other holy Jerusalem personas.
This is indeed a special tour, highlighting the kindness and grace of the special people whose deeds built this city, that ooze from its stones and stories.
Certainly, there is also the more complex political dimension of the reality of today’s Jerusalem. The Museum on The Seam is educational and reflects this.
Of course there are also endless delicious kosher restaurants, and endless more wonderful places to go all over Israel.
But more than the places, there are the people. Find those righteous men and women of Jerusalem, or other special personas reflective of today’s Earthly City, “Yerushalayim Shel Mata,” who speak to you, whose lives characterize and embody Jerusalem in their veins, wrinkles, missions, accomplishments, hearts and souls.
Copyright © 2022 by the Intermountain Jewish News
