Tuesday, July 23, 2019 -
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Millennials discover, reinvent matjes herring

The Rebbe's Choice herring

By Elizabeth Kratz

You never know when something many Jews may associate with old-fashioned Jewish fare, like herring and crackers, will somehow turn high-end and hipster. One millennial, barely out of his teens, is putting herring out there for all the internet to see. And he’s got a heck of a story to tell.

It all started in late 2014, when Queens, NY-teen Naftali Engel was in Israel for post-high school gap-year study. He spent some Shabbats away from his Judean Hills yeshivah with his brother who lives in Safed, the holy city famous for its spiritually creative enclaves. One Shabbat, Engel tasted a particularly delicious homemade herring, and, perhaps nonchalantly, asked the maker for his recipe. The answer he got was not quite traditional.

“‘First, you have to dance with the fish; then say Tikkun Haklali [a traditional Breslov set of psalms geared toward repentance] with the fish, after that sit down and say some Shemios ha-tzadikim (names of the righteous) to the herring. If you can, go to the mikveh [ritual bath] before you prepare the fish,’” Engel told the Jewish Link.

After the man went on to tell Engel to make sure to learn with the herring and recite Psalms for it, Engel gave up on getting an actual recipe out of the man. He did, however, succeed in getting a basic herring recipe from his brother, Menachem. “But what this man gave me was an idea: That I could take the herring and spice it based on what inspires me.”

A business is born

Five years later, Engel, 22, is a busy entrepreneur distributing his own original herrings nationwide under the label, The Rebbe’s Choice — all inspired by that single interaction. From Vietnamese sriracha to smoked Hungarian paprika to Israeli za’atar, he has fused spices from his millennial-modern kitchen with that most modest fish, bringing new life to that old boring herring.

Millennials intrinsically know a thing or two about branding. In what seems like the blink of an eye, a community of 800 enthusiastic followers have popped up on Instagram and are even buying products emblazoned with the company catchphrase — “Heimishe meets high end” — and “the rebbe” on the label, who happens to look quite a bit like Engel’s new father-in-law.

But back to 2014. How did this business get started?

Engel’s first culinary effort — a jalapeño matjes (matjes is a younger, fattier herring perfect for pickling) made on Engel’s dormitory porch at Yeshivat Ohr Yerushalayim — was met with clamors for more from his friends. Soon, students from other yeshivahs heard about it.

“I would make herring for Shabbos and ask if people wanted it, and soon I was selling it out of my dorm room,” he explained.

“My herring started to become well known in the American yeshivahs in Jerusalem. Everyone knew about it. By the next summer, I had a name: The Rebbe’s Choice.”

He hired a graphic designer to illustrate “The Rebbe,” who adorns his labels, wearing a fur streimel, smiling and holding a whole fish. He sold his labeled products in Israel to friends the next year.

Returning home to Queens in 2016, his began his business in earnest, manufacturing his herring recipes out of his shul’s basement in Kew Gardens Hills, Queens. His product had been certified kosher by the O-K.

Fast-forward to today: Engel’s herrings are distributed nationwide by Quality Frozen Foods, a large kosher foods distributor.

More than 1,500 units of herring are produced every week. It’s available in kosher supermarkets in communities nationwide.

Engel explained that while he has no prior background in the food industry, he comes from a family of entrepreneurs — all of whom have found new ways to present items to the public.

His grandfather, Engel related, sold postal products and was apparently the first to sell envelopes in packages of multiples.

His father and brother launched their own pet-supply businesses.

Engel’s new wife, Remi, also helps him in the business with her design ideas and her own millennial flair, even launching the hashtag #womenwhoherring.

Each flavor comes with inspiration

What sets Engel’s herrings apart is that the flavorful, modern fusion-cuisine-take-on-classic- flavors are made from recipes using all kinds of sweet and savory spices, sauces and herbs, and are inspired by a chasidic “Rebbe,” the teachings of whom Engel has learned. A story about each rebbe and how he edified Engel adorns each box of herring.

For example, the sweet black-pepper herring is inspired by Reb Levi Yitzchok of Berditchev, who went to tremendous lengths to, and had great enthusiasm for, finding the good in people, no matter how evil or criminal they were. “Rabbi Levi’s fresh perspective and ardor are the inspiration for this savory and deeply flavored herring,” Engel writes on the label.

Engel has so far singled out rebbes from Lelov, Kotzk, Rimanov, Ropshitz and Zusha, and written inspirational vignettes about their teachings and why they inspired a particular flavor.

Future plans include two types of high-quality smoked salmon, plain and with pastrami flavoring, and a line of flatbread kichel, inspired by the Hungarian Kerister Rebbe, a rabbi from the Tokay region of Hungary known for his incredible hospitality toward strangers.

The kichel is not dipped in sugar like the kichel many Americans know, but it is savory and cracker-like and more typical of old Europe. It’s meant to be eaten along with the herring, of course.

But it’s not just about inspiration; Engel is serious about business. He and his production team, which includes one full-time manager and several part-timers, take pride in a set of common-sense principles for food safety and sustainability.

Their fish products are made from Atlantic herring, primarily matjes, sourced from the Atlantic Ocean from either Europe or Canada, and are bought from fisheries that practice sustainable practices so that ocean-dwellers other than herring aren’t caught in the nets and the supply isn’t depleted.

Engel said he benefited from studying for his ServSafe NYC food-safety handler licenses, finding them instructive in making safer choices regarding fresh ingredients and preparation methods.

“Stored properly, our cured and pickled herrings are good for six weeks, as per the label on the package. You can tell our herring is fresh by how firm it is. Herring that is soft or mushy is usually frozen, whereas our product is fresh,” he explained.

Competitors eyeing the success of Engel’s branding have already begun making attempts at copying the products of this quick-growing company, though Engel has taken this gesture of his competition in stride and even with some cheer. “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and if I made big enough waves that the largest fish and appetizing companies want to copy me, I know I’m doing something right.”   n

The Rebbe’s Choice is available locally at East Side Kosher Deli. 



JNS

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