Everything’s rich at Mardi Gras

By Ethel Hofman

Let the good times roll! In New Orleans, that would be Mardi Gras, a citywide carnival celebration that spans three riotous months beginning on Jan. 6, and culminating with Mardi Gras (or “Fat Tuesday”) on March 4. It’s all about music, parades, floats, food, drink and wild excitement. It’s estimated that more than a million people, locals and visitors, fill the streets during Mardi Gras. All across the city is revelry, with parades day and night. Beads of purple, green and gold — colors representing justice, faith and power — are tossed to spectators and party-goers.

The deadly violence on Jan. 1, 2025 rocked Bourbon Street and the local community, but New Orleans is a hardy city, in some ways still recovering from Hurricane Katrina. Mardi Gras — a tradition with Catholic roots — is the highlight of the city’s year. Domestic terrorism is not going to deter a time-honored institution that historically has involved all residents to some extent, including those in the Jewish community.

Alan Smason, editor of the Crescent City Jewish News who was born and bred in New Orleans, notes the proximity between Mardi Gras festivities and the Jewish holiday of Purim. Even the colors associated with the holidays harken to royalty, including that of Queen Esther in Persia.

Mardi Gras is the last day of carnival season. It’s also the last night of eating rich, fatty foods in preparation for fasting associated with Lent, which leads to Easter.

“It’s not just one day; it’s a month of celebration,” says Smason.

Local Jews not only enjoy the parades and marching bands that are a common denominator of the festivities but often participate in them. They definitely go with their families to watch them and take advantage of all the city has to offer during this time.

Todd Schwartz is an innkeeper and “prison warden,” with his brother Nick, at the Inn at the Old Jail, once the destination of criminals and vagrants. The Queen Anne building has been impeccably restored by the Schwartz brothers to a boutique guesthouse. Located in the Tremé section of the city, it sits within walking distance of cafes and jazz clubs.

In a Jan. 6 conversation, Schwartz declares the city to be “all set to celebrate. Locals are out in droves with parades, music, throwing out beads — nothing has changed.”

As for the inn, he mentions that there have been no cancellations.

New Orleans is one of the best foodie cities in America. The beignets and chicory coffee pouring out of Café Du Monde are a tourist tradition, and have kosher certification. Dishes throughout the area represent a combination of French, Spanish, Cajun and African flavors (think gumbo).

While much of New Orleans’ cuisine doesn’t favor kosher ingredients, the recipes below are classics that can easily cooked up in the kosher kitchen.

As for King Cake, dozens of recipes are out there. It’s a Mardi Gras tradition going back to the Middle Ages, originally made to celebrate Three Kings Day. The version below starts with Gesundheit Kuchen (“Blessing Cake”), a treasured Hofman family recipe. Super easy, the result is a delicate pound cake, slathered with creamy frosting and dusted with the traditional purple, green and gold sugar sprinkles.

The recipe for Shortcut Café Brûlot comes from Jessica Harris, an African American award-winning cookbook author and culinary historian. Instead of the flamboyant drink served tableside, Harris has streamlined the drink to be easily prepared and served at home.

A fairly new addition to the city is the Museum of the Southern Jewish Experience, which shows a different kind of flavor — how the Jews of the American South have blended, added to and taken away elements from the areas they have lived. Mardi Gras hours can be found here.

If you can’t be in New Orleans, then bring Mardi Gras home with this recipe for Kings Cake — with more recipes in the Feb. 28, 2025 print IJN.