JERUSALEM — The scent of hamburgers and beer wafted over the field. The fans were bathed in barbecue smoke.
The bleachers were cut from Jerusalem stone, the field was made of artificial turf. The spectators who had come to greet a tour of Pro Football Hall of Famers sat in plastic armchairs that blocked off the red zones and end zones, with nothing separating them from the game played at midfield.
The players — diminutive by National Football League standards — wore shorts and no padding.
Rather than tackle, they grabbed at flags tied around each others’ waists.
It wasn’t your typical American-style football game, but at least it smelled about right.