ASSADS, Morocco — Why the Jews want etrogs, Mohammed Douch does not entirely understand. What he does know is that they are his main customers.
Each August and September, Jewish merchants come from around the world to his remote grove in the highlands of Morocco — an hour-long hike through mountains, over rocks and along cliffsides.
Most of the year, Douch, 67, a retired restaurant worker, lives in the northern coastal metropolis of Casablanca. But every summer he moves into a structure with dirt walls and a roof made of branches outside this village in the Atlas Mountains to grow etrogs.